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10 Jul

Mermaidcore Madness: An SS23 Trend Spotligh (SSENSE)

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It’s Pisces season and across the fashion universe, the water sign energy is hitting whether you’re a horoscope head or an astrology denier. After all, water is the principal chemical component of the human body, which means that no one is immune to the ebbs and flows of this trend. “I have an immense love for the sea,” model Kiko Mizuhara said as she explained her first outfit in a recent “7 Days 7 Looks” video for Vogue Japan. She wore a swirly enamel shell necklace and matching burgundy crochet halter top, both by the very aquatic Spanish brand Gimaguas. Mizuhara is a city girl, but this season her style is shifting towards a more bohemian, mermaid-meets-land aesthetic. Nothing says mermaidcore like The Little Mermaid herself Halle Bailey on the cover of The Face SS23 issue in a custom Diesel mermaid tail. Clearly Derek Zoolander was onto something when he purred, “Moisture is the essence of wetness, and wetness is the essence of beauty.”

This spring, aquatic styles rule. JW Anderson gave us optical illusion off-the-shoulder dresses filled with water and goldfish when he showed in London in September. Crafty by-the-sea techniques like crochet, weaving, and upcycling are here to stay, as indicated by doily tops at The Row and fishnet dresses at Bali’s very own Isa Boulder. In the heart of New York city, too, brands like SC103 and Maryam Nassir Zadeh are championing a sun-bleached, barefoot-on-the-beach energy with endearingly disheveled designs. Garments were embellished with found objects, organic jewels, and specks of silver that look like they were foraged from a metal detectorist’s stash. Accessories wise, jewelry from the likes of Chloé and Mondo Mondo is giving hand-forged, pirates’ bounty energy. You can even complete your mermaidcore moment with a Solitude Studios seaweed bag.

Featured In This Image: Bottega Veneta heels. Top Image: Model wears Isa Boulder dress.

Featured In This Image: Hugo Kreit earring.

We’ve spoken about shells and spirals and their fascinating, seasons-long ubiquity in fashion as of late, too. Take a quick sartorial beachcombing session and you’ll find the logarithmic shape scattered across collections from brands like Chopova LowenaUgo PaulonKiko Kostadinov, and EMILY DAWN LONG to name a few. What is it about a shell’s fractal geometric pattern that makes it so alluring? It could be that we’re looking for reason, and the reliable repetition of ocean waves and seashell shapes gives us comfort in the chaos. More compelling, though, is the idea that maybe we’re finally paying more attention. To the gravitational pull of the waves. To the rhythm of the natural world. To the voices all around us, drowned out daily by traffic and TikTok.

If we’re going to draw inspiration from the powerful but ailing ocean—from the creatures that call it home to the folklore it’s generated—surely we have a duty to lend it a hand. Something as simple as a quick beach cleanup the next time you’re by the sea can do wonders for climate anxiety. Perhaps in this climate, the best accessory for your aqua-inspired outfit is some meditation. Close your eyes. Picture yourself alone on a sprawling beach, blue sky above, white sand underfoot. Hear the waves crashing, one after another. Repeat: “Don’t panic, it’s oceanic. Don’t panic, it’s oceanic.”

 

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Originally posted from “SSENSE” by Romany Williams

Cometrend Staff
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