From jewelry to ready-to-wear, designer Yoon Anh continues to propel herself to new heights. Spring 2022 focused on her capsule Wksp, pronounced Workshop, where technicality was upheld. This time, Fall 2022 shows that Anh seeks to write a new chapter that perfectly sequences the origins of her career, playing with both the retro and futuristic. Set by flashing red lights and camera rovers traversing the runway, Ambush debuted a collection grounded in Ahn’s foundations of the brand and taken to new heights. Edge takes control through oversized fluffy hats paired with skin-bearing tops (think Pamela Anderson at the MTV Video Music Awards). Ahn’s love for leather, the material showing up as pockets, biker gloves, and heart-shaped handbags. Tailoring has always been...

As we know it, "Dracula" is a tale overwhelmed by its bloody gore, fashioned by gothic reds, lace, and coy exposure of necklines. But what if Dracula was pink and glittery? Giuliano Calza reimagines the literary description of fear as a pleasurable experience. In the world of GCDS, horror is sexy and tantalizing. As we know, the label is most known for incorporating fantasy into streetwear, allowing the boundaries to push into an element of glamour.  Embellished bodysuits, sequined chains, and luminescent suits gave the original dark story a fun element. There was a Victorian influence - Bertha necklines made from bunched latex and brushed, candy pink waist coast, and cummerbunds.  Floral knitwear and balaclavas give a more obvious reference to Bram...

Kim Jones had Rome on his mind when designing the fall 2022 Fendi collection. Specifically: the imagery of Delfina Delettrez walking into the label’s Roman headquarters donning a printed top she plucked directly from her mother ​​Silvia Venturini Fendi’s wardrobe. Given Jones’s history with taking influence from Fendi’s home city, this source of inspiration wasn’t too surprising. But the subtle influence of the brand’s archives—plus a really great take on geometric prints that felt at once soft and strong—still made a major impression. Jones looked to the glitzy Fendi archives for more, diving deep into the Italian fashion house’s spring 1986 and fall 2000 lines specifically. The latter collection, designed by Jones’s predecessor Karl Lagerfeld, provided ample inspiration when it came...

Opposition and contrast were the true statement-makers at Prada’s fall 2022 show. Kaia Gerber opened the presentation wearing a gray skirt that extended into a gauzy, embellished fabric with yellow feather-like details, paired alongside a simple white tank top bearing the signature triangle Prada logo. Meanwhile, Kim Kardashian sat front row wearing a head-to-toe lime green leather look. The combination of flamboyant skirts with simple, streamlined tops exemplified Miuccia Prada’s love for ornate embellishment mixed with Raf Simons’s stark silhouettes. The effect was, in a word, fabulous. But in many ways, it also felt referential to Prada’s fall 2017 show, in which models wore oversized outerwear with skirts that were bottom-heavy with beading, colorful feathers, furs, and more—a collection that put...

“I want to be stressed all the time!” Chet Lo exclaims as I witness his casting over Zoom, just two days before he presents his Fall 2022 runway show at London Fashion Week. For most designers, the run-up to show day delivers the most anxiety-inducing days of their season, but Lo thrives on it. Even though I’m not technically in the room, I can see that Lo’s taking it all in his stride, and his bizarre composure is having a knock-on effect on the team, who are busy crafting away on his new collection behind him. The energy is high. The vibes are good. And the giggles — there are a lot of them. Fall 2022 marks Chet Lo’s second “official” collection: The CSM alum was picked...

Marc Jacobs loves a runway show, to the point that rather than attempt to simulate one during the pandemic, he’s only presented a single collection over the course of the past two years. At least, that’s what it seemed like when the fall 2022 season of New York Fashion Week came and went without any sign of the 51-year-old designer. But when Telfar Clemens took over Jacobs’s usual grand finale slot this past Wednesday, Jacobs wasn’t just at home twiddling his thumbs. He was prepping to drop his own fall 2022 collection 48 hours later, making the leap to digital by simply posting it on Instagram. “We were like, ‘we’re not showing until we can do a show the way we show,’” Jacobs...