Set in the countryside surrounding London, Qasimi showcases its unisex collection “Between Ashes and Roses”. The name of the collection was inspired by a 20th-century work by the Syrian poet Adunis. Hoor Al-Qasimi, the creative director, said she wanted to send a message of renewal and rebirth, evoking a sense of hope.

The digital show takes place at St. Ann’s Court, a country estate in Surrey, and the modernist architecture was done by Sir Raymond McGrath amongst the landscaped idyll, designed by Christopher Tunnard.

In the polished white modernist landscape, the models pop out on the runway with bursts of bright colors that take cues from the Indian subcontinent mixed in with moody hues from last season. The collection is built around architectural lines that complement the season’s minimal aesthetic and oversized shapes.

The necklines, also borrowed from the Indian subcontinent, give a specific reference to the angarakhi and nehru-inspired collars. The gulf dress is also referenced in the form of the kandora – a floor length robe, and the tarbousha – a woven tassel; staples of an Emirati’s man’s wardrobe.

Sportswear elements are elevated by traditional craft techniques such as safeefah – a weave native to the Emirates – it is found on a men’s denim jacket, on a women’s cropped jacket and skirt, as pockets, and on tasselled tote bags.

One of the focal points of the collection is to empower women artisans both professionally and socially. The cotton weave, which appeared across bags, shoes, denim jackets and skirts, were made by women artisans, as were many other parts of the collection.

Partnering with the Lahore-based jeweller, Zohra Rahman, to develop a multi-functional piece that can be worn as a brooch, a pendant or an earring.  Her pieces for QASIMI celebrate humanity, unity, and craft.

Inclusivity in the casting of models for the runway was another focal point of this collection. The attention to detail within this collection goes without saying, bringing together the work and ancient practices by middle easter communities.

Al-Qasimi also worked with a calligrapher on T-shirts and hoodies that spelled the words “Longing” and “Belonging” in Arabic and English, making different worlds come together and work in harmony.

Juxtaposing ancient craft and new technical fabrics from the collection, the collaboration is emblematic of QASIMI’s approach to fashion, which is marked by its respect for the past and its desire to push ahead into the future.

.

.

Originally posted from “V Magazine” by Michelle Diaz