If anyone is going to use hung white sheets as a backdrop for their Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, Moschino will step right up to the plate and devour (as per usual). For his second womenswear lineup with the Italian fashion house, Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza turns the mundane into something memorable and creates a space where luxury fashion can be an opportunity for playtime.

“Divided into distinct groups, echoing and reflecting each other, fashion here has a group mentality. Strength in numbers” the Italian house states in the collection notes. “Throughout, styles shift, individuality celebrated even as part of a gang. The everyday is sublimated, the ordinary made extraordinary, our perspective altered.”

To kickstart the collection, a sea of dresses are crafted out of bare white sheets, making a direct palette cleanser to ease us into the art filled pieces that trickled a few looks later. Tailoring is deconstructed and reshaped, with original Franco Moschino “graffito” chalk drawings splattered across select garments. Upholstery substitutes outerwear, initiating an interesting way to keep warm. Silk housecoats are decorated with prints, and polka dots shine brightly on fringed maxi silhouettes and painted on models.

For a dash of camp, sailor uniforms add a nautical element, while slogan t-shirts and outerwear screaming “THINK” and “GET HAPPY” spark plenty of conversation, aligned with Moschino codes of loud luxury. Trench coats pack a punch with child-safe faux buttons, and punk fashion components arrive in cropped moto jackets and rebellious leather skirts styled with pearls, a candid homage to Franco.

To bring in more art-driven approach to select pieces, Appiolaza teamed up with i-D Magazine founder Terry Jones, who designed a series of satirical iconography affixed with the Maison. Designer and artist Judy Blame gives archival Moschino pieces and designs a reenergized perspective, including the Smiley Face, as her work and use of creativity are tied with the house in countless ways.

And one can’t forget the accessories in a Moschino show. This season, the accessories are delicate, most likely left out of the washing machine. Hats are child-like, where denim fabric is turned into a makeshift crown, and stripes are splashed along a tight-fitted beanie small enough to fit a baby. Handbags are just as playful ranging from sewn-on glove handles to dapper briefcases and candy apple red duffles emblazoned with frilly trims. Home commodities like a bleach bottle and a tea kettle are also turned into stylish pouches.

Elsewhere, footwear is in the form of clown-like boots with opposite colored laces, classic Mary Janes, metallic kitten heels, and a smart loafer chic enough for a busy workday and nighttime play.

Even with the recent arrival of Appiolaza, we can undoubtely spot the longstanding codes of the Moschino house in the collections he has designed thus far, as Spring/Summer 2025 possessed all of the unique qualities the label has hypnotized the industry with for years: camp, contemporary, and oddity, enough to keep us on our toes yet again.

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Originally posted from “V Magazine” by Ashanty Rivera