Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Last summer, Dua Lipa posed on a balcony wearing the Gen-Z top seen around the world. The piece was incredibly complex, with the bodice consisting of two hand-dyed and embroidered butterflies in a kaleidoscope of sweet blues, yellows, and purples. The look was created by Masha Popova, a graduate of Central Saint Martins who solidified her place in the industry not only with her buzzy–and Instagram-worthy—butterfly creations, but also her technique-driven denim. Along with Lipa, Kylie Jenner and Bella Hadid have also worn Popova’s designs.

Popova first studied architecture and later segued into fashion design and enrolled at Central Saint Martins. (The piece that Lipa wore was actually from Popova’s graduate collection.) “[Fashion] is much more hands-on and much more personal,” Popova says. “And therefore more fun.” This playfulness is evident in Popova’s high-octane, early aughts’ designs. Her jeans feel like they are plucked out of some raunchy pop video: Low-slung with crisscrossed waistbands, multicolored dyes, and stark etchings, thanks to “picking and unsticking”.

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Popova is inspired by her upbringing in Ukraine, where she grew up in the small industrial town of Podilsk, before moving to Odessa at the age of 11. In Podilsk, Popova rarely went to clothing stores, and had never seen a fashion magazine. When she moved to the port city of Odessa, she had more exposure to clothes through the secondhand market and local bazaars. Popova saw Ukrainian fashion, in the early aughts, in all of its maximalist glory, including knockoffs of rhinestone-encrusted denim from Dolce & Gabbana and Versace. “As teenagers, that is when we learn to communicate through fashion,” says Popova. “All the references are from my local community, which is why it is important to me to use the materials I use, and why I use denim so much.”

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Popova’s newest fall 2022 collection boasts more miniskirts and draped denim tops, and develops her knack for embroidery. “[The embroidered] butterflies are fluffier,” says Popova. A full skirt and top set is crafted fully out of her signature butterflies, and her denim is more detailed than ever. One stellar example of Popova’s handiwork is a knee-length, hand-pleated skirt that is hand-washed and hand-dyed. Her signature crisscross waistbands are created through a three-step process, and Popova enlists her mother’s help to finish the jeans by removing their stitching.

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

Photo: Courtesy of Masha Popova

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Originally posted from “VOGUE” by Liana Satenstein