Even before 2020, the rhythm of the fashion calendar had been fracturing as some designers broke free from showing within the confines of spring/summer and fall/winter, instead opting to release collections whenever they pleased. Now, all bets are still off—and the pre-fall/cruise seasons are no different. Brands including Fendi, The Row, and even Gucci—which showed its collection with a spectacle of a runway presentation that took place on Hollywood Boulevard and featured over 500 guests—have been putting out their takes on pre-fall since September of this year. We’re following the ongoing releases right here, tracking the latest drops from Proenza Schouler, Chloé, Erdem, (which just released its first menswear line), and more.
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The American designer Christopher John Rogers once told me that his dream client would be his own mother. At the time, he was designing a red suit for her—and I can’t help but think the offerings in his standout Collection 009 lineup, which delivers as pre-fall, was also designed with mom in mind. Although the matriarch of the Rogers family is endlessly chic, don’t get it twisted: Christopher John Rogers pre-fall 2022 is not your mother’s average collection. This is a neon-colored, runway-ready celebration of ladylike fashions tinged with 1980s silhouettes: tailored suits come with shoulder pads, colorways call to mind Miami Vice, and feathered hats evoke the American South—which is a constant inspiration for Rogers and his house codes.
Givenchy designer Matthew M. Williams returned to the French house’s foundational codes for pre-fall 2022—through a lens of ultra-modernity. An enviable range of feathered bags and shoes (Our favorite? A bucket bag with a plume of black feathers sprouting out of the top) launched alongside tailored garments and technical outerwear sporting geometric details and U-lock hardware on closures. Lace bucket hats were worn with checkered lumberjack flannels and fashionable sneakers.
For her latest outing, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to rule-breaking women, namely Catherine Dior, Christian’s sister who was a fighter in the French Resistance and the subject of Justine Picardie’s new book Miss Dior: A Story of Courage and Couture. Twisted yellow tartans, sheer layered dresses, skinny ties, and biker shorts nodded to the designer’s own rebellious spirit during her Catholic school years.
Helmut Lang brought its signature flair for minimalist, utilitarian uniforms to pre-fall—with a cheeky and, at times, sparkling twist here and there. Minibags and trench coats were sprinkled with sequins while office-ready jackets were done in lime green—and suits featured zip-up pockets on the arms. Blink and you might miss the teeny details that make this collection so special.
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Originally posted from “W Magazine” by Maxine Wally
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