It’s hard to believe that Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing is wrapping up his 10-year anniversary at the French house, but it’s true—the 36-year-old creative director has spent a decade making pieces that have attracted the likes of every Kardashian-Jenner, Beyoncé, J.Lo, and many more. For pre-fall 2022, Rousteing was inspired by Kurt Cobain and grunge—applying that deconstructed look to some of his most famed pearl-embellished dresses for women and onto sweaters for men. Super-sized jeans had back pockets on the front, boots and gloves were made by the moto racing company Fox, and chunky boots—of the military and moon varieties—abounded.

If Jeremy Scott’s Moschino spring 2022 collection was inspired by newborn babies, his pre-fall effort for the Italian label was meant for the dolls those babies’ toddler siblings dress up during playtime. Every color under the sun was rendered in military-style jackets, lace-up boots, and marching band coats. Space Age hoods met chevron prints, too—as seen here.

Chanel staged its annual Métiers d’Art show—a showcase of its many legendary artisans—in a Paris space dedicated to the crafts people themselves. The newly opened 19M building complex houses 11 of its famed partners in design from milliner Maison Michel to the embroiderers of Lesage. The maximalist collection was set to a performance by Soo Joo Park, who both walked the runway and made her debut as the musician Ether. Per Virginie Viard in the show notes, “Many of the embroideries are inspired by the structure of the building itself, such as those by Montex, which are very graphic and in silver sequins.”

For her pre-fall 2022 collection, the New York City-based designer Batsheva Hay focused on what her label Batsheva is calling the “return of the dress.” It makes sense—the cult favorite brand made a splash in 2018 when it debuted its signature range of Laura Ashley-inspired prairie dresses. This season, there are frocks aplenty, with many new shapes and silhouettes in graphic palettes of black, white, and pops of color, along with floral prints—and new materials, too, like the latex garment shown here.

Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have taken their vision for pre-fall literally: the looks are an amalgamation of codes first introduced in spring 2022, and will build upon new ideas to be introduced in fall 2022. The clothing and accessories focus on soft, easy suiting—often fastened with just one button—contrasted with animal print and bright colors.

Designer Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by the British painter Eileen Agar for pre-fall 2022—an artist born in Buenos Aires, Argentina who was one of the key figures in the Surrealist movement. The result: midi skirts, Mary Janes, and vibrant prints on tea-length dresses—quintessential English dressing.

Gabriela Hearst put out a sustainable effort this season, with ’80s-esque leather pilot jackets like the one seen here, belted long skirts and cutout peasant blouses, along with a slew of outstanding printed coats.