Just as sunset began to spread over the Brooklyn Grange’s rooftop farm, Collina Strada’s spring 2022 show—and its colorful cast of characters—came out swinging to usher in the return of in-person NYFW. As performer Dorian Electra’s cover of Pharrell’s “Happy” blasted on the sound system, models spun, skipped, and twirled down the runway, topping off their “farm queen” and “frog princess” ensembles (as designer Hillary Taymour called them) with individual beauty looks punctuated by whirls of ombré color and subversive shapes.

“We wanted to make everyone look like they were playing and gardening in a fairy garden,” explained makeup artist Allie Smith, her own gaze framed in a haze of abstract paint and glitter backstage. “It’s about really bright, beautiful colors and all different kinds of textures.” On the more extreme side of the things, there were shimmery strokes of MAC Chromaline in a mix of saturated shades, like Primary Yellow and Genuine Orange, on the ears, hands, and feet. An array of fantastical flower manicures were drawn on by nail artist Juan Alvear.

More subtly, sun-loved draped blush layered over “perfect outdoorsy skin,” as Smith calls it. “It’s the height of summer, you’ve been outside gardening,” she says of the look, which was achieved with the help of Tula’s sheerly tinted Filter Primer. “You’re a little sun kissed, humid, and just effortlessly perfect.”

From singer-songwriter Oyinda’s voluminous Afro punctuated by acid-hued waves and braids at the nape to twins Mannat and Sirat Kaur’s tossed up, asymmetrical half-dos, hair looks centered on “embracing everyone’s own vibe,” explained hairstylist Evanie Fausto, adding that there was a nod to the “MySpace, scene kid, and emo” scenes of the early aughts, but with a distinctly Collina Strada twist. Nothing was overthought. “My brain shuts off and my hands move,” Fausto explains. “It’s natural, it’s organic, it’s punk.” Needless to say, every nuance of this season’s beauty was crafted with the same attitude. It’s one worth channeling always, but especially now for some expressive respite. “We’re always just having fun at this show,” says Smith. “I’m glad everyone else is picking up on that.”

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Originally posted from “VOGUE” by Lauren Valenti