The moment Chitose Abe’s first look for Jean Paul Gaultier fall 2021 emerged on the runway, it was eminently clear why the French label had chosen the Sacai designer as a collaborator for this season. Abe’s tendency toward stitching together mixed fabrics, or even two different garments, to create a new piece of clothing blended seamlessly with Gaultier’s iconic codes. Marine stripes? Check. Tartan? Check. Only this time, Abe had grafted them together to create a drop-waist dress with a long train. Inevitably, Sacai’s signature touches showed through as well—hand-gathered pleats created 3-D textures, and there were punk-inspired trench coats paired with wide-brim, geometric-shaped hats that appeared straight from Abe’s days cutting her teeth at Comme des Garçons with Rei...
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