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23 Nov

Looking At The S/S18 Collections Through The Colour Spectrum

Possagno, Treviso, Photography by John Pawson; Versace S/S18

A new book of architect John Pawson’s inspiration reads like the arc of a rainbow, writes Ana Kinsella – and its vibrant hues map neatly onto Spring/Summer 2018

Taken in isolation, colour can seem like such a simple thing: a vibrant, incidental background noise that links the visual world to the world of emotion. But colour can’t be taken in isolation. Each shade, each moment, is interconnected with an infinite number more, and every decision we make around colour – whether it’s selecting a new paint for the front door or simply getting dressed in the morning – ends up revealing more about us and our world than we might imagine. Spectrum, a new book from renowned minimalist architect John Pawson and published...
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22 Nov

This New London Shopping Space Is Designed to Make You Happy

Photography by Alexander Coggin

We step inside the newly opened Browns East – a nomadic pop-up shopping experience that will never look the same way twice

Since 1970, the Browns flagship store has been nestled in the heart of Mayfair, commandeering a quintuplet of Georgian townhouses on South Molton Street to house an ever-changing, ever-growing roster of luxury fashion brands. As one of Britain’s longest standing boutiques – and the first to sell multiple brands in London – it has a reputation within the industry for bringing the very best new design names to London; a precedent set by owners Joan and Sidney Burstein from day one. Mrs Burstein’s unparallelled knack for talent spotting resulted in a long string of firsts for fashion in the capital,...
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2 Nov

Logomania, The 1990s Trend That’s Returned With A Vengeance

Ribbed wool dress, metal and cardboard chain belt, and necklace by Moschino. Photography by Tim Elkaïm, Styling by Chloe Grace Press

As demonstrated by the A/W17 collections, branding is back to assert its place in our wardrobes

The logomania trend, whilst rooted in the excess of the 1980s, truly came into its own during the following decade, as a sartorial response to the US economic boom of the 1990s. Whilst branding initially found its place in fashion as a mechanism to denote prosperity and status, it soon became an aesthetic trope in itself, with Calvin Klein, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior logos emblazoned on It bags, splashed across sweaters and seductively printed on underwear. Post-recession, the desire to wear labels in such a blatant manner waned, and a quiet minimalism began to dominate the runways. This season, however, the logo returned with a vengeance...
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31 Jan

The Post-Internet Branding that Swept the Menswear Shows

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Does branding maketh the brand? If the recent menswear shows are anything to go by, the answer is a definitive yes. Gone are the days of recession-era discretion, most famously embodied by the four subtle white stitches that would instantly identify a Margiela to those in the know. Today, branding is all about the big, bold cultish lettering that can be spotted from a mile off. Sounds gaudy, doesn’t it? That’s only natural – after all, a widespread cynicism when it comes to overt branding is only to be expected considering the abuse of it as a USP within the fashion world. No longer are T-shirts with a miniature crocodile or polo player flying off the shelves like Star Wars...
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26 Jan

A Photographic Series About Google

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Polly Brown's Column
Where once the likes of encyclopaedias, research libraries and image archives provided a treasure trove of information which could be delved into and discovered at whim, today’s modern age has introduced a novel means of uncovering data, and all that it requires is a computer device and a WiFi connection. Over and above a simple means of finding source imagery, Google image search has spawned a mystical poetry all of its own, and falling into it, somewhat like Alice into the rabbithole, can be incredibly addictive. For this new installment of her column, entitled You & Me, photographer Polly Brown expands on ideas surrounding processed, composite and translated meanings. Entering her own images into Google’s vacant box to see...
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16 Nov

The Designer Inspired by Introspection and Intimacy

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Why did Andy Warhol wear a diamond necklace under those black turtleneck jumpers? To feel beautiful on the inside – or at least to feel beautiful for himself. Such an introspective sense of pleasure, which prioritises one’s own sybaritic sensuality over the public-facing exterior, is exactly the kind of thing that one would expect Alice Waese, a New York-based fashion and jewellery designer, to appreciate. Waese’s Spring/Summer '17 collection takes its cue from the essence of introspection; a subconscious projection of the designer’s own mind. “I had a dream about this bear that had an eye in its stomach,” she explains on the phone from her studio in Brooklyn. “I woke up and drew it, and that became the starting...
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27 Oct

Five Models Reflect on Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Debut

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When a new creative director takes the helm of a house – as has so often been the case recently – a veritable frenzy of excitement surrounds their inaugural collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri's S/S17 debut for Christian Dior was a prime example of such anticipation, and her uniquely feminine vision found its synergy with the house's storied codes through a fresh new incarnation of the Dior woman. "I strive to be attentive and open to the world and to create fashion that resembles the women of today," she said "fashion that corresponds to their changing needs, freed from the stereotypical categories of 'masculine/feminine', 'young/not so young', 'reason/emotion.'" What resulted was a collection that paid tribute to the history of Dior...
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