“What I’m trying to avoid is a cat-eye or wing,” says makeup artist Dick Pagebackstage this morning ahead of Narciso Rodriguez’s 20th anniversary show, while dipping an arrowhead brush into an inky black eyeliner pot. Sure, the feline flick has made waves of late as the go-to beauty equation for It girls looking to add an element of excitement to their no makeup–makeup equation, but what to do when the graphic touch starts to feel more like a rut? Enter the brushstroke eye. “There’s a bit of a break in the line, but it’s not totally asymmetrical,” says Page of the Richard Serra–like marks that he achieved with Shiseido’s Inkstroke and a matte Make Up For Ever coal-color shadow.
Though the bold look could be overpowering, Page notes that the key here is balance. “You’re not going to draw all over the face,” he says—instead recommending pairing it with skin that’s “as clean as possible” and “no mascara, no brow [makeup], just lip balm.”
As for stressing about mirroring his professional execution, Page insists that no two strokes need to be alike: “Some girls have a little sketch underneath and some girls [have it] just on top,” he says of the one-of-a-kind detail. “The idea is that [each girl] is different.” Sounds like a perfect sentiment for kicking off New York Fashion Week.