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17 Feb

Marc Jacobs Fall 2017: The Beauty Was in the Details

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The Marc Jacobs fall 2017 show was decidedly different from previous seasons. There were no elaborate sets. No surprise guest. No glitter, grease, or false lashes. In fact, the makeup being used backstage were items you’d find in the average person’s makeup bag: black and brown eyeliner, concealer, a red lipstick, and a highlighter stick. That’s all because the inspiration for Marc Jacobs’ fall show was real people, or to be more exact, the Netflix documentary, “Hip-Hop Evolution,” a four-part series that “chronicles the poignant and pivotal cultural movement that reshaped and redefined the landscape of music, which gave way to a whole new language of style,” according to the show notes. “He really wanted to celebrate the street culture of New York,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said backstage. “So the casting if very unique, very eccentric, and we’re just playing up those characters for the show.” That meant very little in the way of makeup—a bit of black smudged along the lashes of some girls, mascara for a few others, some shiny lids, and one girl who got sprinkled with fake freckles—and thanks the oversized hats in the collection, there was also very little in the way of hair. However, if you looked closely, the beauty story for Marc Jacobs fall 2017 was a heck of a lot more interesting than at first glance. Just take a look:

The models’ highlights were otherworldly. And Kendal had a genius way of achieving that. Using the back of her hand as a palette, the makeup artist mixed Marc Jacobs Beauty Under(cover) Perfecting Coconut Primer with the brand’s Glow Stick Illuminator. The hydrating lotion broke up some of the shimmer of highlighter stick to create a dewy, radiant glow that could be seen from across the room. “His highlighter is a great product, but mixing it with a little bit of the primer makes it really nice and luminous without being too opaque,” said Kendal. “It just gives the skin a really beautiful sheen.”

 Some of the models wore a gorgeous black-cherry lip color. While most of the models’ mouths were bare, a few girls came down the runway wearing a deep, dark not-quite-black/not-quite-burgundy shade of lipstick. And again, Kendal played mix-master backstage, combining two shades of Marc Jacobs Beauty Lip Crème in Blow (a deep berry) and Blacquer (a straight-up shiny black) and painting the blend onto the lips with a brush. “We didn’t want a typical dark lip,” explained Kendal. “So we mixed in the red to lighten it slightly but also add some depth.”
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The nails were the most elaborate part of the beauty look. With the street style of New York City as his inspiration, Jacobs asked manicurist Jin Soon Choi to really play up the nails on a few of the models. Of the approximately 24 models wearing fake nails (which ranged from short to talon-length), most of them received two coats of a yet-to-be-released burgundy shade from Marc Jacobs Beauty, which was either left as is (so a solid manicure) or decorated with gold metal decals that Choi glued on. These decals included a “double J” design (for Jacobs) that punctuated pinkie fingers, or every letter in the designer’s name, spelling out “Marc Jacobs” across their ten fingers. For the models not wearing the burgundy polish, we also saw graphic black-and-white diagonal lines and silver and gold stripes.

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The hats were designed by milliner Stephen Jones. Which left hairstylist Guido with a lot less stressed backstage this season. “When you wear anything in your hair or on your head, the best thing is to downplay your hair,” said Guido, who left the models’ hair as is and sprayed it with a little Redken Wind Blown 05 Dry Finishing Spray to enhance their natural texture . “If the hair peeking out of the hat is too styled or thought about, the whole effect is ruined. You miss the idea that you’re casual about your style and what you’re wearing.”

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From-Allure

Anna Jo
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